According to NEC (National Electrical Code) revision 1996, all new branch circuits for residential clothes dryers will be routed using separate machine ground conductors.Under the new code requirements, the old familiar 3 P (bar), 30-Amp dryer socket replaced by 4 p, 30-Amp receptacle.Old 3 P, 3-The wire dryer circuit is still legal and safe, so there is no need to re-wire the dryer branch circuit to install the equipped 4-Wire "appliance whip" (wire ).Change 4-easier and cheaperSteel Whip with 3-wire whip.Remove the plate covering the electrical connection and remove the four screws that fix the "red", "White", "black" and "green" leads.The "red" and "black" leads come with 220-Voltage between themThe "white" wire is a "ground" neutral wire with 110-The voltage between it and the hot leg.The "green" wire fixed on the frame of the dryer is the machine grounding/conductor.Loosen the two screws on the whip holder and pull it out.Cut a 6-1 per inch, 1Insulated inches from each end and use a needle nose clamp to form a clockwise cycle of the stripped ends.Using this line, "glue" the frame of the dryer to the center and attach a "neutral" pillar to the patch panel.Place the wire in a clockwise direction on the post so that it will rest tightly against the terminal screw.Do not place the ring in a counter-clockwise direction, because when it is tightened, it is squeezed out from under the screw.Feed the 3-The wire passes through the holder clamp and is fixed in place.Do not over tighten the screws on the whip holder, as excessive tightening can damage the insulation of the whip holder, resulting in a short circuit or ground failure.Connect the "red", "White" and "black" leads to the terminal strip.Be careful when tightening these screws, as excessive tightening of them causes the thread to be removed, so it is necessary to replace the terminals to take off.Replace the cover plate to the junction box.Plug in the dryer and you can start drying your clothes.
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